
Writing for the American Vogue
magazine in 1954, Auden poses the question: where do we place our own Eden,
that “Innocent Place where no contradiction has yet arisen between the demands
of Pleasure and the demands of Duty. What is its landscape, the ethnic origin
of its inhabitants, its religion, its form of state, its architecture, its
system of weights and measures, et cetera?” For that child of the Midlands, his
compass always pointed north.[2]
His favourite landscapes were not the olive groves and classical ruins of the
Mediterranean but the sombre Pennine Fells, whale-backed and lonely under the
grim grey lowering sky that the North does so well. And best of all, what he
called his “great good place, the part of the Pennines bounded on the south by
Swaledale, on the North by the Roman Wall and on the West by the Eden Valley”.[3]
Precisely where we find ourselves today, indeed, what he called “the Never-Never
Land of my dreams”.[4]

Always
my boy of wish returns
To those peat-stained deserted burns
That feed the WEAR and TYNE and TEES,
And, turning states to strata, sees
How basalt long oppressed broke out
In wild revolt at CAULDRON SNOUT….
To those peat-stained deserted burns
That feed the WEAR and TYNE and TEES,
And, turning states to strata, sees
How basalt long oppressed broke out
In wild revolt at CAULDRON SNOUT….
The
derelict lead-smelting mill,
Flued to its chimney up the hill,
That smokes no answer any more
But points, a landmark on BOLT’S LAW
The finger of all questions. There
In ROOKHOPE I was first aware
Of self and not-self, Death and Dread….
There I dropped pebbles, listened, heard
The reservoir of darkness stirred.[5]
What he tells us is that it was here among these landscapes
that Auden found his poetic voice, where juvenilia metamorphosed into a
maturing poet. The first poem he admitted to his adult canon was a poem called
“The Watershed”.Flued to its chimney up the hill,
That smokes no answer any more
But points, a landmark on BOLT’S LAW
The finger of all questions. There
In ROOKHOPE I was first aware
Of self and not-self, Death and Dread….
There I dropped pebbles, listened, heard
The reservoir of darkness stirred.[5]
Who
stands, the crux left of the watershed,
On the wet road between the chafing grass
Below him sees dismantled washing-floors,
Snatches of tramline running to a wood.
An industry already comatose…
On the wet road between the chafing grass
Below him sees dismantled washing-floors,
Snatches of tramline running to a wood.
An industry already comatose…
He sees an almost mystical significance in the relics of an obsolete industry, as numinous to him as the monuments that we admire that have come down to us from the ancient world or the middle ages. Numinous may seem a strong word in that context. Not when a place has become charged with meaning because you became a poet there, where you saw “into the life of things” for the first time, to quote Wordsworth. Auden ventures up to a derelict mine working somewhere on the fells above this village and drops a pebble down the shaft, and, he says, listens and hears, senses the reservoir of darkness stirring, becomes aware of self and not-self, Death and Dread. The language is redolent of religious experience, the kind of primal awe described by Rudolph Otto in his great book The Idea of the Holy. For him the reservoir of darkness doesn’t mean what is sinister and frightening, rather, the hidden depths of the land, of life, of the soul, of God even, which it is the vocation of every human being to uncover and explore if we want not to live in the shallows all our lives. The experience may be raw and disorientating. But that is the whole point. That’s where watersheds in human life are crossed and our human existence becomes significant in new way. To encounter the native spirit of a place in this visceral, life-changing way is, I think, how we become more truly alive, and therefore more truly ourselves.
I find Auden’s discovery of the sacred within the landscape
intriguing. I think he can help us reflect on our theme today, Sacred Space and Community. What he
suggests is that “sacredness” is a bigger concept than simply marking a site
where people of faith have gathered and done religious things, where “prayer
has been valid” to quote T. S. Eliot. The sacred
is about finding meaning in a place,
recognising in it that which evokes responses like attachment and belonging,
reverence and awe. Sacred literally
means “set apart”, so it defines space marked by thresholds that we cross where
we behave in particular ways. The classic instance is Moses at the burning bush
where he is told to “take off your shoes, for the place where you are standing is
holy ground”.[6]
It’s to recognise the rich, coalescence of myth, memory and story, symbols,
images and human community past and present – clusters of associations that compel
us to stop like Moses, to consider and reflect, discover who we are under God.
I think it works like that for people of faith who want to enter into the cultural,
historical, and theological meaning of religious sites and artefacts, what we
call our spiritual heritage.
Let me offer you three theses about sacred space that I hope
will help us understand what we are talking about here in Blanchland.
********
My first thesis is: Sacred
Space is an Aspect of Landscape.
When we were back, I talked about Delphi with a retired
school teacher who was also a reader in her cathedral. She had taken A-level
student groups there to perform classical drama in the theatre. “Of course,
what you sense when you’re there is that this is a holy site” she said. “And
that’s something to do with the landscape setting itself. It’s not simply the
centuries during which people went there to seek wisdom and worship at the
shrines. Something about the place itself suggested the numinous, the sacred.”
I dare say it might not have struck us so powerfully on a hot sunny day, for
the weather seemed so much part of our experience of Delphi – but then again,
who knows?
Here at Blanchland, then, we should not be too quick to
assume that “sacred space” only means the Abbey and its surroundings. Residents
in this village may tell different stories about sacredness that may not wholly
align to the church’s preferred narrative. When people talk about communing
with God in nature, we shouldn’t dismiss the importance of such spiritual
experience. When Jacob exclaims at Bethel, “Surely God was in this place and I
did not know it!”[11]
he was speaking not of a formally-established place of worship but of a
numinous experience in the open air where he had a dream about heaven and earth
that shook him to the core. The shrine followed the experience, not the other
way round. And I did not know it is
the crucial point. It may be precisely where we do not know God, or expect to
find him, that he discloses himself. Beth-El
means “house of God”. God has many mansions. Most of them are not churches.
********
My second thesis is: Sacred
Space Tells Stories.
I said that Auden’s experience of this part of his beloved
North was of a highly-textured landscape. Geomorphology and natural history are
a big part of the story of the North Pennines: this Area of Outstanding Natural
Beauty was designated as a UNESCO geo-park, one of only seven in the UK. The focus
is “on using Earth Heritage to support sustainable economic development of the
area, primarily through geological and responsible tourism”.[12]
This has included “geology events, developing trails across the landscape,
creating displays in local museums and visitor centres, producing educational
resources, working in local schools and more”. So the story of this particular
sacred space predates any human story by hundreds of millions of years. In
Durham Cathedral I always pointed out to visitors the fossils embedded in the
black Frosterley Marble piers. These are the oldest living things whose traces
can be read in the fabric of this building. Every building, every site, tells
such a story.
Blanchland’s narrative is especially rich. It is told in the
church guidebook[13]
first issued in 1951, originally privately printed, we are told, for Vaux and
Associated Breweries Limited, Sunderland, and reprinted in the 1990s for the
Lord Crewe Arms, Blanchland Post Office and Blanchland Stores. There can be a
whole story in the obverse of a title page! It’s an invaluable guide, and is
now available on the village website[14].
Blanchland would not exist but for the Abbey. Its very name tells us that its origins belong to a religious story, Blanch-Land, meaning, probably, the land of the White Canons as the Premonstratensians were known. In this, its foundation story has many parallels in medieval Europe, like Durham, the city that grew up around the shrine of St Cuthbert, or Salisbury, the city of New Sarum that established itself in the same way when the Romanesque cathedral of Old Sarum was abandoned on its hilltop and a new Gothic cathedral begun down in the valley. In both cases, you can draw concentric circles round the formal sacred space of the church itself: its conventual or college buildings, the enclosure of the precinct, the city that sat on the far side of the precinct wall, and the hinterland beyond. As in Greek or Roman cities, the pro-fanum was not some barbarous place where the holy did not penetrate; rather, it was the space before the temple in which holiness took a civic, rather than cultic, form. “Ordinary space” as compared with sacred space. So sacred and profane co-exist in the localities that are within the orbit of holy sites. In this locality, for instance, life in the upper Derwent Valley would not only fall within the cultural and spiritual “reach” of the Abbey, but, all-importantly, it would be wholly under its economic power as well.
This is easier to understand in Durham, where so much has
survived of the medieval Priory, than in Blanchland where the dissolution of
the Abbey resulted in the creation of an altogether new townscape. We know that
Abbey buildings were despoiled for stone with the village began to be
re-imagined as we currently have it. The Abbey Church was severely truncated,
losing its nave, south transept and pretty well all its conventual buildings –
cloister, refectory, chapter house, dormitory, abbot’s lodging and infirmary. Unless
you know what you are looking at, reading the layout of the conventual site
from the present-day village can be difficult.
It doesn’t stop there. The Abbey estates passed to the
Derwentwaters of Dilston Castle and became part of Jacobite history for a while
until the sympathisers James and his younger brother Charles Radcliffe were
executed following the abortive 1715 and 1745 Jacobite rebellions. You need to
read Walter Besant’s novel of 1884, Dorothy
Forster to get the feel of those times, or more recently (and accessibly), Devil Water by Anya Seton, both of which
are set in this locality. From then, the key player in the story of Blanchland
is Nathaniel Lord Crewe, the Bishop of Durham who cherished this village and
created the model village as it is today. The Lord Crewe Trust has managed it
ever since. You see how densely textured the story of this place turns out to
be. The brand may say unspoilt medieval
village. The story tells us that the reality is a lot more complex than
that, but Lord Crewe’s village may be
closer to what visitors actually see.
My point is that the story of Blanchland’s concentric circles of sacred space is ambiguous. It preserves the memory of centuries of worship and piety on the part of the white canons, the goodness and purity of heart that flowed out of the Premonstratensian vision of life lived in the service of God and neighbour. Yet it’s an ambiguous history like the story of the landscape here in the North Pennines. You could say that the natural beauty of our Pennine landscape carries a shadow side, the evidence of how it was despoiled by the raids on it of centuries of lead-mining. Now, the mines have gone too, and with them the livelihood of many a Pennine village and family. In the same way, the Abbey was done violence to by a Reformation that some welcomed as the work of God, but many, particularly in the North, saw nothing but disaster in the abandonment of the old faith. Loss is written into this place. I tried to capture the spirit of the place in my book of 2013, Landscapes of Faith. Having described the village and the Abbey, I wrote, a trifle nostalgically, “It offers an emotive, living memorial to a lost way of life, with the remoteness of the village’s beautiful setting and its still obvious monastic layout a powerful memorial to those long-dead white canons”.[16] The story of sacred space is always ambivalent, carries a shadow, or at the very least can be read in different ways.
In the Ignatian spiritual tradition, the words consolation and desolation stand for different states of the soul in the
discernment of God’s Spirit at work in human life. Consolation means the comfort and strength that comes from the
Spirit’s presence as Comforter or Advocate, while desolation is the darkness and disturbance of the soul through
sorrow, hopelessness or anxiety when God is, or appears to be, far off or
altogether absent. Is it fanciful to ask whether some aspects of the story of a
place’s speak of consolation while
others testify to its opposite, desolation?
If so, then Blanchland with its noble but troubled history could be a
case-study of how to read a story and, importantly, learn how to place
ourselves within it.
********
Which brings me to my final thesis. Sacred Space Must Be Inhabited and Reimagined.
I come back to the point I made earlier about landscape, that
it is just not the case that “the church is people, not a place or a building”.
When people speak about churchgoing, as Philip Larkin did in his famous poem of
that name, that’s precisely what they mean. And if sacred geography and our
theology of place[17]
are well grounded (to coin a phrase), they are right to speak as they do.
However, places, landscapes, buildings are for populating. People
do not by themselves necessarily create sacred spaces (though they can do), but
by inhabiting them they add to their textures and assign new layers of meaning
to them. I learned this when I wrote a new guide book to Durham Cathedral in
2003. In it I suggested that there were three emblems of North East England (I
believe I called them icons, but I use that word much more sparingly now) that
were instantly recognisable by everybody who lives in the region or has the
slightest acquaintance with it. They were the Roman Wall, Durham Cathedral, and
the Angel of the North. I was taken to task by a professor of history from
eastern Europe who remarked that I wasn’t comparing objects of the same type.
The Roman Wall had once been populated by a community (the army that served
along it and the communities that lived in its hinterland) but whose people
were now simply a memory. The Angel of the North was an artefact pure and
simple and was not inhabited by anyone other than in the most attenuated sense.
But Durham Cathedral was home to a living, worshipping community and continued
to be the goal of pilgrims as it had always been. The textures of these emblems
were entirely different.
I now see that it is not as simple as the professor thought.
The Wall is the focus of a community of guardians, conservators and volunteers
to whom its destiny is a matter of almost mystical significance. The Angel,
intriguingly, draws to it people who want to mark rites of passage at its foot:
birthdays, renewing wedding vows, scattering the ashes of loved ones. All of
these are temporary communities brought into being by a sculpture created out
of cold steel on the site of a former mine working. And all three attract big
crowds of visitors (who may well describe themselves as pilgrims, in which
group I include people walking along the Wall) who, for the time they are in
relationship with the object of their visit, can be said to form another kind
of temporary community.
I’m not in the least decrying the heritage industry and
church heritage in particular: I’ve spent three decades of my working life
trying to open up the heritage of three very different cathedrals and
encouraging people with little or no church background to cross the threshold
and come inside. The growing awareness of our heritage “offer” as sacred spaces
is not only a key aspect of outreach, but it also professionalises our practice
and humanises our welcome to guests as we help them orientate themselves in our
buildings, understand something of what they see and respond. You’ll note the
word: not tourists who only come to
observe, but guests with the
potential to become pilgrims who,
however tentatively, are encouraged to participate, become part of the
temporary community that the sacred space calls into being. Benedict’s Rule says that we should receive guests
as if they were Christ himself. Generous hospitality and intelligent
interpretation are, I think, among the gospel values that should shape how we
inhabit our sacred spaces. We could put it another way and say that sacred space
is “shaped” by vocation, as the Hebrew Bible speaks about the land of promise,
a call that affirms a particular geography not only for its physical aspects
but for the spiritual, ethical and personal values it represents.[19]
Perhaps that’s the most important insight for today. Allow it to shape our thinking about “sacred space and community” and it will make all the difference. Create a place where all can come, as Auden did, and drop pebbles down metaphorical shafts that plumb the depths of place and life and God, and listen in case something stirs.
[1]
Myers, Alan & Forsythe, Robert (1999), W.H.
Auden: Pennine Poet, 55ff.
[2] Davison, Peter (2007), The Idea of North
[3]
Myers & Forsythe (1999), 8.
[4]
Sadgrove, Michael, “Durham: A Northern Cathedral” in Wakefield, Gavin &
Rooms, Nigel, eds., (2016), Northern Gospel, Northern Church, 183.
[5]
Quoted by Myers & Forsythe (1999), 24.
[6]
Exodus 3.5.
[7]
Genesis 1.31.
[8]
Psalm 19.1.
[9]
Psalm 8.3-4.
[10]
Brown, David (2004), God and Enchantment
of Place: Reclaiming Human Experience, 152.
[11]
Genesis 29.17.
[12] www.northpennines.org.uk,
accessed on 23 October 2018.
[13] Addleshaw, G.W.O. (1951), Blanchland: A Short History.
[14] www.blanchlandhistory.org.uk/docs/BLANCHLAND%20A%20short%20history%20G.W.O.%20Addleshaw.pdf
[15] https://northernambo.blogspot.com/2018/10/christianity-with-north-east-accent.html?spref=tw
[16]
Sadgrove, Michael (2013), Landscapes of Faith:
the Christian Heritage of the North East, 129.
[17]
Rumsey, Andrew (2017), Parish: an
Anglican Theology of Place.
[18]
Wright, Patrick (2009), On Living in an
Old Country, 137.
[19]
Rumsey (2017), 79, citing the work of Walter Brueggemann.
[20]
Mark 11.17.